SLAP! My stomach drops out from under me as I fall. Before I even realize I'm falling I hit the water hard, tumbling completely out of control like a rag doll in a washing machine. I bounce around forwards, backwards, sideways, upside-down, clinging to my paddle, half blinded by the foam. Then forward stroke and rudder- I'm in a semi-controlled front surf. The water flies under me at what looks and feels like a zillion miles per hour. Part of me is screaming "Get off the wave NOW!" but another part is thinking, "OMG, this is the craziest, wildest, most fun ride I have ever taken!" I lose control again and flush off the wave. I roll up and immediately want back on. I eagerly wait in the line-up. Thus goes my first surf of Garb.
That was two days ago. Today I, and the rest of the Keeners, spent an hour and a half surfing it at prime level. Every time I peel out of the eddy with apprehension, looking over my shoulder and leaning into the curler, then waiting for the entire foam pile to crash down on me. I'm in and going for an insane ride. I bounce around in the wave, maneuver towards the curlers that bring me to the top of the foam pile, and then drive/fall down five feet. Today I fell on my left edge, was thrown up into the air as I simultaneously transferred my edge and threw the bow under me into a massive air blunt. I stuck it on the wave screaming with joy and adrenaline. That blunt saw to the achievement of one of my two main goals of my time with Keeners and was one of the most fun things I have done in my time on the Ottawa.
